“Adorned By HAJI: A Bernadette Levi Interview With Aya-Nikole Cook”

How does the meaning of “HAJI” tie into the designs in your accessories? How does it inspire you?

The word HAJI is an Islamic title that is given to a person who has made the pilgrimage to Mecca. There is no direct link, but I define HAJI a bit more generally, as a “seeker of enlightenment.” I definitely consider myself a seeker. The accessories are endowed with a certain amount of positive energy as the artist (myself) is a conscious person, who treats the production process as a meditation.

You mentioned on your website that you got into accessory designing by chance while at a dance club one night. What was your inspiration for the earrings you were wearing that evening?

Because I am a Designer, I try to always wear at least one item that I designed and made myself. This is because in conversation, people will often ask “what do you do?” When I respond with “I’m a Fashion Designer” the next question is ALWAYS “oh, did you make what you are wearing?” It’s kind of funny, but I turned that exchange into one of my design philosophies. Always represent your ART. You are your own best model after all. So I was headed out for some dancing (one of my favorite things to do), and I didn’t have any new clothing designs to wear, so I figured I could make a pair of earrings in the short time I had prior to leaving the house. I had an old pair of hoop earrings from H&M that were painted gold. The paint was chipping off and I could no longer wear them so I started playing around with them, adding different materials to freshen them up. I had some left over feather trim lying on the work table from another project (a feather trimmed cape), and I thought: “this could be interesting. . . “  When I’d finished, the brown Pheasant feathers were woven around the plastic base with leather, and the look was stunning. I loved them and was curious to see what others would think. They were beautiful and strange all at once. The response the earrings garnered from other club-goers let me know I was onto something. This was something I could build on. From there I did my first trunk show with the University of Chicago’s Moda Fashion group, and the line took off from there.

How did your previous occupation as a stylist help you with your career as a designer now?

Prior to starting HAJI, I worked as a Costume Designer and Stylist for Film and Television. I also worked as a Visual Merchandiser at Marshall Fields (dressing mannequins, window displays etc.) Both jobs helped me to develop my knack for styling into a firmly established aesthetic sensibility that was marketable and bankable.  Both careers helped me to explore and come to understand my talent and hone my skills. I also learned that there was real value to what I had to offer, and people were willing to pay handsomely for it! I learned tabletop display skills at Marshall Fields that has certainly helped me to create arresting HAJI Couture displays at trunk shows and selling events.

Do you use any money earned from your accessory line for the benefit of charities? If so, what charities? If there are none, do you plan on contributing in the future? If so, in what capacity?

Unfortunately, HAJI is still in the emerging stages, and I am not yet able to be charitable in the ways that I would like. I do however recognize the importance of being IN SERVICE. I do donate jewelry to auctions and benefits for certain organizations like MARWEN (I am an alumni), The Urban League, and others quite often. I am able to be more charitable in my work as a Yoga instructor, offering free classes to different under-served communities whenever I am asked or able.

Does religion take any part in designing your jewelry?

As I mentioned earlier, I have learned to approach the creation of the jewelry as a meditation. Each one-of-a-kind piece takes anywhere from one to four hours to make, depending on the style. I achieve the best results when I am able to be peaceful and totally present with the work. Often times I get into a zone and four hours flies by, feeling like one. When I sit back and look at what I’ve created, it is truly a thing of beauty and worthy of the title COUTURE. I do not consider myself a religious person at this point in my life, but I am very spiritual.

How does being a yoga instructor tie into the design of your accessories?

See the answers to questions # 1 and 5 and I’ll add this: Yoga is the practice of uniting the mind, body and spirit. The word literally translates from Sanskrit to English as Union, Yoke or Tie. When my Yoga practice is steady and strong, I am steady and strong. I practice a rigorous and athletic style of Yoga known as Ashtanga Yoga. It consists of the practice of a scientific set of poses done 6 days per week in the same order each day. The poses are meant to detoxify the body, while building strength and flexibility in the body AND the mind. My Yoga practice helps me to access a clarity of mind that allows creative energy to flow unobstructed through me, manifesting that energy as these beautiful little adornments. When my mind is clear of the constant clutter, fluctuations and obsessions with the past and future, I am able to be HERE NOW. That is where the power is; THAT is where everything is possible!

Are you still the assistant to artist Kerry James Marshall? If so, how does being his assistant give you your own personal push to design your jewelry? Has he given you any helpful advice to better yourself in your career?

I am the personal/studio assistant to the Artist, Kerry James Marshall. He has been a phenomenal force in my life for over  ten years. He has mentored me in art as well as life. I have learned impeccability through working closely with him, and at this point we collaborate on some aspects of the work he is making. I am honored to be able to contribute my talents to his amazing body of work, and I am eternally grateful for his influence on my life and art. I often bring new HAJI work into his studio for a critique. He is a staunch critic who NEVER bites his tongue, and I am most often sent back to the drawing board, but always return with work that far exceeds my own expectations of myself. I recommend that everyone find a mentor in life who will push you forward with firm, but loving and ever-extended hands.

Bernadette Levi is a 2010 GirlSpeak editor.

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